If you consider that there are somewhere between 5,000 and 10,000 varieties of vitis vinifera, the vine species used to make wine, it is hardly surprising that many remain obscure.
Grüner Veltliner has less than 20,000 hectares of vines planted around the world, in contrast to more popular Chardonnay, which has more than 160,000. More than half of this is in Austria, although 95% of Gru-Vee (as it is called in the States) never makes it outside German-speaking borders.
I was invited to take part in a wine tasting challenge of this variety, hosted by Laurenz V, Austria’s main exporter and vocal champion of this variety around the globe. The tasting was hosted by Lenz Moser, and was the fourth in a series held in Zurich, London and Vienna.
This is one of my favourite white wines. I just love introducing it at wine tastings, watching blank expressions turn into smiles of delight, and then later hearing people recommend it to others!
Lenz Moser explained its charm: Grüner Veltliner has the floral perfume and white pepper of German Riesling, the minerality of a Loire Sauvignon on the palate, and the luscious fatness of a good north Italian Pinot Grigio. Its beauty is that it is the perfect wine with food, and its alcohol never overpowers.
Having tasted two dozen from around the world at this tasting, I would add that Grüner Veltliner tends towards being elegant, pure and unoaked, with a wonderful white pepper finish. They are largely dry (averaging 4g residual sugar), with moderate acidity. These drink beautifully when young, and develop richness with a few years age. A 20 year old Laurenz V tasted in Dublin was remembered with smiles and salivation.
Grü-Vee is a variety whose appeal is crafted in the vineyard, rather than the winery. The best quality is claimed to be from Wachau. However, choice soils – loess and granite, later blended together, and warm sites are good. A critical point is choosing the picking time. While late-ripening, a delay of 1-2 days can result in a very different wine. Cool temperature fermentation and minimal handling in the winery is normal. Allowing it to evolve, on the lees for up to one year adds texture. It is not unusual to ferment and age part of the wine in old oak.
As its popularity increases outside Teutonic nations, demand has pushed up grape prices. Strategically, Austrian producers have been encouraged to plant red varieties, and so plantings dropped from 20,000 ha in 1980 to today’s 13,000. Lenz explained that 10 years ago grapes cost about 30% of the current value. You will need to part with at least €15 for a Gru-Vee experience.
In blind tastings around the world, Laurenz V scores consistently in the top five. Ireland’s top palates including Julie Dupouy, Ireland’s 2012 Best Sommelier, placed Laurenz V at number one in the Dublin tasting recently. Unfortunately not all the wines are available, but the following are in Ireland:
Laurenz V Grüner Forever 2012 is new to the market and a good introduction to this variety. It’s fine, dry, elegant and quite lengthy, with pear and mineral character and moderate acidity. €14.99.
Charming, Laurenz V 2011 has a richer mouthfeel. Dry, but quite ripe and richly textured; balanced by a light prickle. Ripe red apples, lemon and a lovely white pepper twist at the end. We also tasted the 2008 which was much richer again. €27
The Paddler Grüner Veltliner 2012 is a New Zealand version made by flying winemaker Matt Thomson – very fresh, youthful, with a pleasant, not too rich mouthfeel. Pear, grapefruit, minerality and hints of white pepper on the finish. €20.
Read the full results of the Generation Gruner wine tasting challenge.
